Article contents
- 1.What a potted sapling is
- 2.When to plant
- 3.Step 1. Harden it off outdoors
- 4.Step 2. Prepare the hole
- 5.Step 3. Take it out of the bag and spread the roots
- 6.Step 4. Plant at the right depth
- 7.Step 5. The first month to month and a half
- 8.About protective tubes
- 9.Common mistakes
- 10.Frequently asked questions
- 11.Sources
A potted sapling grows in a bag of soil and already has leaves, so it is planted after the last spring frosts and before summer, or in early autumn. Before planting it is hardened off outdoors for a few days, curled roots are gently loosened, it goes in at the same depth as in the bag, is watered at once and shaded for the first month to month and a half.
1What a potted sapling is
We call a sapling "potted" (in Ukrainian, "vegetating") when it grows in a bag or pot of soil and has a green shoot with leaves. In our catalog this is a two-year-old sapling in a 5-litre bag with a closed root system. American university handbooks call such plants container or "green" plants.
The difference from a bare-root sapling is the state in which the plant reaches you:
| One-year | Potted | |
|---|---|---|
| State of the plant | Dormant: a cane without leaves, roots without soil | A green plant with leaves, roots in a soil ball |
| Preparation for planting | Trim the root tips, soak the roots | Harden off outdoors, loosen the roots |
| When to plant | Early spring or autumn, outside the growing season | After the last frosts and before summer; early autumn |
| Main risk | Roots drying out | Leaf sunburn and the soil ball drying out |
| Price and weight | Lower and lighter | Higher and heavier (a bag of soil) |
The variety, taste and traits are the same: what differs is the age of the sapling and the type of root. We cover how to choose the form in the article “One-year or two-year-old sapling”.
2When to plant
- In spring and early summer, once the danger of frost has passed. Iowa State Extension advises planting container saplings after the danger of frost is over and before summer. eXtension (the US network of university extension services) says the same of “green” plants: plant only after the spring frosts. In our experience this is usually May.
- Early autumn (September to early October), so the vine has time to root before the cold. We cover autumn and spring timing in “When to plant grapes”.
- Not in the hottest hours. This is our practical advice, not a requirement from the handbooks: an evening or an overcast day gives the leaves time to adjust.
The main difference from a sapling “at rest” is that it already has leaves, so it loses water. For it, winter frosts matter less than frosts on the young shoot and heat with wind in the first days.
3Step 1. Harden it off outdoors
If the sapling was grown in a greenhouse, in shade or simply indoors, its leaves are not used to direct sun and wind. eXtension advises keeping container saplings in a sheltered place for a few days before planting so they adapt to the weather. In practice: put the bag in a bright spot without direct midday sun and each day leave it outdoors a little longer. Keep the soil in the bag moist, but not wet.
4Step 2. Prepare the hole
The hole should be no smaller than the soil ball. The University of Wisconsin advises digging it about as deep and wide as the root system. Ukrainian practice (which we ourselves described in the planting article) recommends a hole 50–60 cm wide and 60–80 cm deep with drainage. For the difference in hole sizes, see the article on choosing the site and the hole.
Do not put fresh fertilizer or manure in the hole. Wisconsin warns directly: fertilizer, compost and manure in the planting hole can damage new roots. If you want to add organic matter, mix well-rotted material into the soil and do not put it under the roots (this is our advice, not a handbook norm).
5Step 3. Take it out of the bag and spread the roots
- Take it out carefullyCut the bag with scissors rather than pulling the plant by the stem. The soil ball should stay intact.
- Inspect the rootsIf they have curled around the inside of the bag, loosen them lightly with your fingers. Wisconsin advises loosening the roots of container saplings: circling roots can produce weak plants.
- Do not shake off the soilThe sapling is planted together with its ball.
6Step 4. Plant at the right depth
- The same depth as in the bag. Iowa State advises planting container saplings at the depth they were growing. Do not bury the stem higher than it was in the bag.
- If the sapling is grafted, the graft union must stay above ground. NC State advises that after the soil settles it should be about 2.5 cm above the surface.
- Backfill with the soil from the hole and press it down lightly so no air pockets remain. Do not pack it hard.
- Water at once. Wisconsin calls thorough watering right after planting critically important: it brings the roots into contact with the soil.
- Put a stake beside it and tie the shoot gently. UC IPM advises a stake of about 1.8 m, and NC State a bamboo stake of 1.2–1.5 m.
7Step 5. The first month to month and a half
- Watering. Iowa State advises up to 2.5 cm of water a week in the first season: water generously after planting, then every 7–10 days in dry weather. UC IPM advises watering infrequently but deeply. In a moderate climate and good soil, watering once every 2–3 weeks is usually enough, and more often in heat. Go by the soil: a few centimetres down it should be moist, not a bog.
- Shade. In our planting article we advise protecting a young sapling from direct sun for the first month to month and a half while the roots settle in.
- Mulch. A layer of hay, grass or sawdust keeps moisture in and holds down weeds.
- Flowers and clusters. Wisconsin advises removing flowers and fruit from potted saplings so the plant grows rather than fruits.
More on the whole first season: “Caring for a grape sapling in the first year”.
8About protective tubes
eXtension mentions protective tubes as an option: they are placed after planting, with the base lightly covered with soil and not set in too deep. The University of Wisconsin, on the other hand, advises not using them without need, so as not to push excessive growth. So a tube is not mandatory: it is for when you need to protect a young shoot, for example from rabbits or wind.
9Common mistakes
- Planting straight into the sun from a warm, bright place without hardening off.
- Not loosening curled roots.
- Burying the stem deeper than it was in the bag.
- Putting manure or fertilizer under the roots.
- Letting the soil ball dry out or, on the contrary, flooding it.
- Planting on the hottest day and not shading.
10Frequently asked questions
Can a potted sapling be planted in summer?
Iowa State advises planting container saplings from the end of frosts to the beginning of summer. Our article on timing says closed roots tolerate later dates too, if there is regular watering and shade. But the later and hotter it is, the more closely you should watch the moisture of the ball and the sun on the leaves: do not skip waterings in a drought.
Do I need to do anything with the bag?
The bag is removed completely: it is not left in the hole. Cut it with scissors and carefully lift out the ball.
How long until the first crop?
A potted sapling does not give a full crop in the year of planting. Wisconsin advises removing flowers and fruit so the vine develops roots; Cornell advises removing all clusters in the first year. How many to leave in the second year depends on the vigor of the vine: Cornell mentions a small crop only on vigorous vines.
Is a potted sapling better than a one-year-old?
They are different. A potted sapling tolerates planting in a less than ideal window better and is less sensitive to root drying, but it costs more, is heavier to ship and is sensitive to sun and heat. A one-year-old bare-root sapling is cheaper but needs more precise timing.
11Sources
- Planting Grapevines, eXtension (Grapes): “green” and container saplings, hardening off, protective tubes, timing.
- When can I plant grapevines in my garden?, Iowa State University Extension: timing for container saplings, depth, spacing, watering.
- Establishing Cold Hardy Grapevines on Spur Pruned High Cordon System, University of Wisconsin Fruit Program: potted saplings, circling roots, no fertilizer in the hole, removing flowers.
- Cultural tips for growing grape, UC IPM (University of California): watering young vines, the stake, the first year.
- Vineyard Establishment, NC State Extension: position of the graft union, support, the first year.
- Grape Growing In The Home Garden, Cornell Cooperative Extension: removing clusters in the first year.
The handbooks describe American conditions; for your region and variety, timing and watering rates may differ. Inches, feet and gallons have been converted to metric units and rounded.
