Where to plant grapes: site, spacing and the planting hole (where advice differs)

1The site first

A vine lives and fruits for decades, so the site matters more than the hole. What the university handbooks say:

• Full sun. Cornell and UC IPM alike advise an open sunny site with well-drained soil.
• Not in a “frost pocket”. The University of Nebraska–Lincoln (UNL) advises avoiding places where cold air pools. Cornell adds: do not plant in low spots, or near woods or buildings that block air movement.
• Wind. According to UNL, strong wind can damage the vine, while moderate wind dries the leaves after rain or dew and lowers the risk of disease.
• Slope aspect. South is warmer, but the vine breaks bud earlier and the buds can be hit by late spring frosts; north delays budbreak but can also delay ripening; an east-facing slope dries fastest in the morning (UNL).
• Row orientation. UNL, NC State and Cornell advise rows running north to south. NC State specifies: if there is a slope, rows run across the main slope, and north–south is chosen when other factors are equal.
• Shade. NC State advises not planting vines closer to shading objects than their average height.

2Soil and water

• Drainage. Grapes do not tolerate standing water. UNL advises checking how the soil absorbs water before planting (an infiltration test): dig a hole, fill it with water and see how fast it drains.
• pH. According to UNL, the optimum is about 5.5–7.0; most varieties tolerate slightly lower and higher values.
• No compacted layers. UNL advises that the root zone should run down several feet (about a metre) with no dense layers; loosen the soil if needed. For compacted soil NC State advises deep ripping (chiseling) to 30–60 cm.
• Not too rich. According to UNL, high fertility is not needed, and excess nitrogen makes vines overly leafy at the expense of fruit.
• Soil test. NC State advises doing one before planting, to correct pH and nutrition if necessary.
• Irrigation water. Take care of it in advance: UNL advises checking the availability and quality of irrigation water, preferably a year before planting.

3Spacing between vines and rows

Sources give different ranges: the vigor of the variety and the training method change the spacing.

A simple guide: vigorous varieties and rich soil need more room (NC State advises 2.4–3 m in the row for grafted vines on rich or irrigated soils), weak-growing varieties and poor soils need less. Denser planting is costlier to maintain: the vines shade one another. According to Cornell, trellis height should not exceed the row width.

4The hole: where advice differs

This is the part where Ukrainian practice and the American handbooks differ most. Here they are side by side:

What they have in common:

1. Roots must not bend or coilThe hole should be wide enough for them to spread (NC State advises widening the hole rather than coiling the roots).
2. The walls must not be “glazed”In clay soil the spade compacts and smooths the walls, and roots do not grow through such a layer. NC State and eXtension advise scraping or loosening the walls.
3. DepthPlant at the depth the plant grew at in the nursery (Iowa State). The graft union must stay above ground: NC State says that after the soil settles it should be about 2.5 cm above the surface; eXtension advises about 15 cm for grafted vines.
4. Fresh fertilizer and manure do not go under the rootsWisconsin says this directly.
5. Water straight after planting

Where they differ:

• Hole size. Ukrainian practice (50–60 × 60–80 cm) is several times larger than the holes in the handbooks.
• What goes in the hole. Ukrainian practice puts in humus and a fertile mix; Wisconsin advises adding nothing.
• Root pruning. eXtension advises trimming the roots to fit the hole; NC State advises not trimming and widening the hole; Wisconsin trims only long and damaged ones. In our planting article we advise trimming the tips by 1–2 cm and soaking the roots.

Our conclusion

The difference is explained by the soil, not by the principle. On light, well-drained soil a hole sized to the root, backfilled with the same soil, is enough. On heavy or compacted soil a large hole makes sense, but not for the fertilizer: to loosen the zone around it and give the roots an easy start. So if you dig a large hole, loosen the walls, return the same soil to the hole (and if you add humus, mix it in and do not put it under the roots) and leave nothing dense at the bottom. This is our conclusion from comparing the sources, not a single norm.

5Preparing the plot in advance

• Plan planting a few months ahead: do a soil test and check drainage.
• Remove weeds, stones and tree roots. Loosen deeper if needed.
• Put in the lower part of the trellis, or at least a stake, straight away: Cornell advises not letting the vine lie on the ground.

6Common mistakes

• A low spot or a shaded place.
• Too dense: the vines shade one another.
• A hole in clay with smooth walls.
• Fresh manure or fertilizer under the roots.
• Planting deeper or shallower than the plant grew.
• Not checking drainage: standing water in summer.

7Frequently asked questions

8Sources

• Site Selection and Development, University of Nebraska–Lincoln: sun, slope, wind, drainage, pH, soil.
• Vineyard Establishment, NC State Extension: spacing, hole size, depth, the first year.
• Planting Grapevines, eXtension (Grapes): the hole and root pruning, graft union, watering.
• When can I plant grapevines in my garden?, Iowa State University Extension: spacing, planting depth.
• Cultural tips for growing grape, UC IPM: spacing, hole width.
• Establishing Cold Hardy Grapevines on Spur Pruned High Cordon System, University of Wisconsin Fruit Program: a hole with no fertilizer, root pruning.
• Grape Growing In The Home Garden, Cornell Cooperative Extension: site choice, spacing, trellis.

The handbooks describe American conditions (climate, soils, varieties). Inches, feet and gallons have been converted to metric units and rounded; for your region, also go by the experience of neighbors and the advice of local advisory services.