Article contents
One-year saplings with open roots are planted in spring (April to early May, when the soil has warmed to +8…+10 °C) or in autumn (from October until the cold sets in). Saplings in a bag with soil tolerate transplanting more easily, so they can be planted a few weeks later.
1Planting dates: a quick cheat sheet
The dates below are a guide for central Ukraine. In the south all dates shift 1–2 weeks earlier in spring and later in autumn, in the north and west — the other way round. Soil temperature is more reliable than the calendar: in spring the soil must warm to +8…+10 °C at root depth and there must be no threat of frost.
| Sapling | In spring | In autumn |
|---|---|---|
| One-year, open roots | April to early May, once the soil has warmed | From October until the cold; no later than 8–10 days before the first frosts |
| Two-year, in a bag with soil (closed roots) | May, once the threat of frost has passed | Early autumn (September to early October) so the vine has time to root |
2Spring planting: pros and cons
In spring the soil has enough moisture after winter, and the vine has the whole season to root, grow shoots and ripen before the cold. It is convenient to prepare the hole in autumn — over winter the soil in it settles and takes up moisture.
There are drawbacks too. Cold soil slows the start, and planting too late in the heat may leave the vine no time to ripen before autumn. In the first month the sapling needs regular watering and shade from direct sun.
3Autumn planting: pros and cons
In autumn the soil still holds warmth, the buds are dormant, and the roots manage to adapt, so such saplings usually start earlier in spring. Over winter the soil takes up extra moisture, and saplings with open roots are dug up in the nursery field precisely in autumn — it is easier to get them fresh.
The main risk is the first winter. In regions with severe winters, a young planting must be covered, for example with a mound of soil, leaving 2–4 buds above the ground. In the south a warm autumn sometimes makes the buds wake up too early — so do not plant too early and watch the weather.
4What to choose in your region
- South. Autumn planting is reliable: the winter is mild, and in spring the sapling is already rooted.
- Center (Kirovohrad, Cherkasy, Poltava and neighboring regions). Both dates work; in autumn plant on time and cover the vine for the first winter.
- North and west. Spring is safer: less risk of winterkill and rotting under cover, and the hole can be prepared in autumn.
If you hesitate, remember a simple rule: when you are not sure about the winter — plant in spring.
5How to prepare the hole and the sapling
- Dig the hole in advanceThe approximate size is 50–60 cm wide and 60–80 cm deep; prepare it 10–14 days before planting. Put drainage at the bottom and a fertile mix with humus on top; after tamping, water with 2–3 buckets of water.
- Prepare the rootsFor a sapling with open roots, trim the tips by 1–2 cm and soak the roots in water for 12–24 hours. A sapling in a bag needs no special preparation — it is planted together with the soil ball.
- PlantFor open roots, make a small mound at the bottom of the hole and spread the roots downward; set a sapling with a ball on a level prepared cushion. Do not bury the graft union (if there is one).
- Water and mulchAfter planting, give 1–2 buckets of water and mulch the soil around with hay, humus, dry grass or sawdust.
- Shade for the first month or month and a halfWhile the roots take hold, protect the sapling from direct sun and make sure the soil does not dry out.
The distance between vines depends on the variety’s vigor and training: a guide is from 1.5 to 3 meters in the row. For more about varieties and their characteristics, see each variety’s page in the catalog.
6Common mistakes
- Late spring planting in the heat without shade and watering.
- Planting too late in autumn — when the roots no longer have time to take hold before frost.
- Burying the graft union and over-dried roots.
- No cover for the first winter. Read how to do it in the article “How to cover grapes for winter”.
7Frequently asked questions
Can grapes be planted in summer?
Saplings with closed roots, grown in a bag with soil, can also be planted later provided they are watered regularly and shaded. Saplings with open roots are not planted in summer: they are dug up and planted outside the active growing season.
When do you ship saplings?
We dig up one-year saplings with open roots in the nursery field and ship them in autumn. We will tell you the timing for two-year saplings and spring shipments when we contact you after you place the order. More on the “Delivery and payment” page.
What should I do if I have received the sapling but cannot plant it yet?
Do not leave it in the sun or in frost. Temporarily heel in a sapling with open roots or keep it in a cool place in damp sawdust or sand, and keep a sapling in a bag in a bright cool place and water it moderately. Step by step — in the article “What to do with a sapling after receiving the parcel”.
