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The aim of the first year is strong roots and a healthy shoot. Water infrequently but deeply (Iowa State’s guide: up to 2.5 cm of water a week), keep weeds out, do not feed without need (excess nitrogen does harm), remove clusters and check the leaves every week. Pruning and training are covered in a separate article.
1What should happen in the first year
The University of Wisconsin states the aim simply: develop a powerful, healthy root system and grow shoots from which the trunk will later be formed. UC IPM advises letting the shoots grow freely in the first season: they build strong roots. So in the first year you are working for leaves and root, not for a crop.
We wrote separately about pruning and trunk training in the article “How to train a young sapling”. Here is everything else.
2Support straight away
Cornell advises putting in stakes or a trellis at once and not letting the vines lie on the ground. NC State names a bamboo stake of 1.2–1.5 m (set 25–30 cm deep), UC IPM about 1.8 m. Tie new growth gently: Wisconsin advises agrofabric, rubber hooks or elastic twine so as not to cut into the vine. A straight shoot is easier to look after and to weed around.
3Watering
Here the sources have close but different guides:
| Source | What it advises |
|---|---|
| Iowa State | Up to 2.5 cm of water a week in the first season: water generously after planting, then every 7–10 days in dry weather |
| UC IPM | Infrequently but deeply, so moisture soaks the whole root layer. In a moderate climate and good soil, once every 2–3 weeks; in a hot climate, more often |
| Cornell | As needed in dry weather |
| Wisconsin | Thorough watering right after planting; the article gives no rates |
What follows in practice. Go by the soil and the weather, not the calendar: on light sandy soils and in heat more water is needed, on heavy soils less. One deep watering is better than frequent shallow ones, because roots go deeper. Do not flood: excess water pushes oxygen out of the soil. From bloom to the start of berry softening, writes UC IPM, avoid drought stress; but in the first year we do not leave clusters (see below), so this period applies mainly to mature vines.
4Weeds
Wisconsin calls weed control in the first year a critical task: weeds compete for water and nutrients and slow root development. Cornell advises regular weeding. Mulch (hay, dry grass, sawdust) keeps moisture in and holds down weeds: we gave this advice in the planting articles; the handbooks we used here do not describe a specific mulch.
5Feeding: needed or not
This is where the advice differs most.
- Not in the hole. Wisconsin directly advises not adding fertilizer, compost or manure to the planting hole: they can damage new roots.
- UC (California), for newly planted rooted cuttings: nitrogen is usually not needed in the first season, except on sandy soils, where it is applied from late June to mid-July. Avoid ammonium sulfate and anhydrous ammonia: on sandy soils they can cause burn.
- Cornell (Long Island, sandy soils): start with a light feeding in May, after budbreak; if the vines are weak and pale green, repeat in June or July. Reduce nitrogen if the shoots are excessively thick (thicker than a finger) or the leaves too large and dark. Do not feed late in summer.
- UNL: high fertility is not essential; excess nitrogen makes vines overly “green”.
What they share: fertilizer does not go in the hole, too much nitrogen does harm, and late summer feeding is avoided. A practical takeaway from the sources: if the shoots grow evenly and the leaves are a healthy colour, no feeding is needed; if the vine is pale and weak, feed moderately. Always take fertilizer rates from the manufacturer’s label.
6Clusters and flowers
Cornell advises removing all clusters in the first year so the plant develops roots and framework. Wisconsin adds: for saplings bought in pots, remove flowers and fruit. In the second year Cornell allows a small crop only on vigorous vines that have filled the trellis.
7Disease, pests and animals
- Leaves are future roots. Wisconsin reminds: inspect plants regularly and keep pests and diseases under control to preserve the leaves, because they make carbohydrates.
- Every week. Cornell advises checking the vines every week; in their region several sprays against powdery mildew may be needed.
- Rabbits. Cornell advises protecting young saplings with mesh tubes. For protective tubes as a way to guard against weather or animals, see more in the article on potted saplings.
- Deer and others. Cornell advises a deer fence 2.4–3 m high; for raccoons and groundhogs, trapping by a specialist.
Always take products, their rates and spray timing from the manufacturer’s instructions and from local recommendations.
8What not to do
- Leave clusters in the first year.
- Water often and shallowly.
- Give nitrogen “just in case”.
- Pile fertilizer and manure in the hole under the roots.
- Let weeds grow: they “eat” water and nutrients right at the roots.
- Skip the leaf inspection: disease in the first year weakens the whole vine.
9Preparing for the first winter
By the end of the season the shoot should have time to ripen and turn woody (it becomes brown and hard). In regions with severe winters a young vine is covered; details in the article “How to cover grapes for winter”. Final trunk training is done in late winter or early spring.
10Frequently asked questions
When to expect the first crop?
In the first year the handbooks (Cornell, Wisconsin) do not leave any at all. In the second year Cornell allows a small crop only on vigorous vines that have filled the trellis. For a two-year-old potted sapling we say the same: it is not a ready vine with a full crop.
How much water to pour under a vine?
The sources give a rate in depth of water (up to 2.5 cm a week according to Iowa State) or a frequency (once every 2–3 weeks according to UC IPM), but not buckets. In practice: water so that moisture soaks the root zone, and check the depth with a finger or spade.
Do I need to shade?
For potted saplings and newly planted ones we advise shade for the first month to month and a half. Through the summer shade is not needed: grapes need full sun.
What if the shoot grew weakly and the leaves are pale?
First check water, weeds and sun. If the vine is weak and pale green, Cornell advises repeating a moderate feeding. Take the rate from the label, and if the vine has not started growing at all, contact us and send a photo.
11Sources
- Establishing Cold Hardy Grapevines on Spur Pruned High Cordon System, University of Wisconsin Fruit Program: the aim of the first year, weeds, potted saplings, no fertilizer in the hole.
- Cultural tips for growing grape, UC IPM: watering young vines, the stake, the first year.
- Grape Growing In The Home Garden, Cornell Cooperative Extension: clusters in the first year, feeding, inspection, protection.
- When can I plant grapevines in my garden?, Iowa State University Extension: watering in the first season.
- Vineyard Establishment, NC State Extension: the stake, support.
- Wood Sources for Cutting (Pub. GV5-97), UC Cooperative Extension, Tulare County: nitrogen in the first season for newly planted rooted cuttings.
- Site Selection and Development, University of Nebraska–Lincoln: fertility and excess nitrogen.
The handbooks describe American conditions; for your region, timing and rates may differ. Inches, feet and gallons have been converted to metric units and rounded.
